Fixing a hole in the wall

July 26th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

I removed the old basement windows and now have repair work in the masonry opening ahead of me. There is some moisture damage to take care of as well as filling the recesses of the old wooden window sill and head in the top and bottom corners.

One of the windows is an unusual case and requires a little more tender-loving care.

We discovered during our basement deconstruction that it is not an original window, but had been added sometime later.

bsmt-win-04

This is a curse as well as a blessing as with most other things that had been added later in this building. We don’t mind having the extra window in the basement, but we now have to deal with shoddy masonry work around the edges, which was done with the wrong mortar. But worst of all, this window had no header and thus no support for the two floor joists. Instead, they were just resting on the window jambs – not something you can call a structurally sound solution.

That said, this setup obviously has worked for a number of years. Nevertheless, I got increasingly nervous each time I looked at the window and decided quickly to shore up the non-supported floor joists.
I now could safely remove the shoddy masonry work around the window edge, deconstructing everything back to the original brick work.


After everything was cleaned out, I began to rebuild the masonry opening with salvaged common brick and the right mortar (type O). I finished the job by crowning the window with a 4 by 6 old growth header, the same kind of header we have over all other basement windows. This set-up has a 100+ year successful track record … enough to convince us that this is the way to put it back together.

This takes care of the inside work. Next step is to get the outside part of the window fixed.

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Basement windows

July 23rd, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

I got on a roll—the window roll, that is. And I’d better be, because there is still a lot to take care of regarding the windows…specifically the basement windows.

bsmt-win-01 bsmt-win-02

Some of them are the original 100-plus-year-old windows, which are falling apart. Some have been replaced once with single pane double hung windows, but the jambs are still original, and show a lot of rot. There is nothing to salvage here. I have the privilege to rip out the entire window assembly down to the brick opening. The job involves a sawzall to cut the jambs, and a hammer, pry bar and a lot of dust.


What are we putting back into the opening? High efficiency double hung replacement windows.

I would have preferred casement or awning windows, because they usually have a lower air leakage rate and better energy performance. The problem is that both those styles open outwards, which would interfere with the exterior security guards.

bsmt-win-03

Hopper or tilt-and-turn windows would have been another option, but I couldn’t find these styles as high performance windows or at the right price point. So we are settling on the double hung which do not interfere with the guards.

Our research led us to Uniframe and Serious products, which fall within our energy performance parameters.

Once I have framed the brick opening with a new buck and once I can take the final measurements for the replacement windows, I will request pricing for both and take it from there.

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Highly-Insulating (R-5) Windows and Low-e Storm Windows Volume Purchase Program

July 20th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Here is another incentive that may help us with the replacement window decision. This time it’s not a tax credit but a program by the Department of Energy (DOE) called the “Highly-Insulating (R-5) Windows and Low-e Storm Windows Volume Purchase Program”. I stumbled across it in a GreenBuildingAdvisor blog post.

“The aim of this volume purchase initiative is to work with industry and potential buyers to make highly insulated windows more affordable.”

… states the DOE web site. Hey, great! This is right up my alley. Anything that could make this big investment less hurtful on our pocketbook is welcome!

So, how does this program work? There are 30-plus vendors that qualified for the DOE volume purchasing program – vendors that sell “high performance windows” with U-value of 0.22 or less.

The windows volume purchase web page allows the user to browse through different window types for new construction, retrofit windows, patio doors and low-E storm windows. I can select my window size range (listed in unit inches [UI]) and get access to a list of participating vendors.

This program can be a real big time saver. Rather than going from vendor to vendor to find out if they have high performance windows, I have a preselected list right at my fingertips. The program is also an excellent resource to quickly find local vendors of high performance windows.

I began to call around to see how much savings I could expect from the program. This is where it got interesting. It was officially launched on May 27, 2010 and some participants are organized, others are not.

With some vendors, I communicated with a sales person who was designated to just deal with the DOE program sales, while others had no clue what I was talking about. I literally had to point them to the web site so they could see their name in the participating vendor list. Some had to get in touch with their corporate headquarters to investigate what this was all about.

This made it rather difficult to get my hands on the pricing information. I had to be very explicit and persistent that I was only interested in the DOE volume purchase initiative pricing structure, the same structure that had been submitted to and approved by the DOE.

Despite all the confusion I caused with my inquiries, I eventually got some pricing that appeared to be in line with the DOE program.

Because we are about to replace the basement windows, I used their size range (up to 70 UI) for my inquiry and got a price spread of $138.00 to $328.00.

window-matrix-01

I am not sure, but my gut tells me that some of the prices are not that different from the regular sales prices, which puts into question the objective of “making highly insulated windows more affordable”.

But so what? I still can get a 70 UI high performance window for under $200, right?

Well – you have to look out for the air leakage (AL) rate. Like I contemplated earlier, the insulation value of a window can be negated by a high AL rate. If we would like to keep the AL below 0.05 cfm/sf, we are looking at more than $200.00 per window.

As helpful as the DOE program is, it is important to remember that there are windows that are even more efficient than those included in the program. That is why I kept the Uniframe double hung by Great Lakes Windows in my list.

The question now is if the price delta to the next runner up (the Serious Windows product) can be justified by additional energy savings.

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Tax credit folly?

July 18th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

We stepped deep into window research, but we still have to make a decision on what windows to use. Because they will be a very big investment, any type of rebates, financial incentives or tax credits will influence this decision.

Federal Tax Credits for Consumer Energy Efficiency

… or, more commonly known as the $1,500 tax credit that expires on December 31, 2010.

The total of $1,500 can be applied across a range of energy efficient upgrades, such as furnaces, water heaters, insulation, doors and – yes – windows. This made us very happy as we were convinced that we could claim the $1,500 in a heartbeat on our new windows … until I looked at the fine print.

Qualifying windows must have a U-value of 0.30 [LINK] and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) of 0.30 (see also ‘The world of windows’ post).

This is a federal tax credit, available nationwide, from Alaska to Florida and Southern California to Maine, intended to stimulate the economy and improve the energy efficiency of existing homes.

Now, wait a minute, how can that energy efficiency thing work with this one requirement (U-value of 0.30 and SHGC of 0.30) across a number of different climate zones? Down south, a very low SHGC is probably of interest while the U-value would not matter that greatly. It would be the reverse up north, where the insulation value (U-value) counts and passive solar heat gain (high SHGC) may actually be desirable.

Take our house in Chicago. I ran a quick window analysis for the 1st and 2nd floor with the RESFEN model. The only variable in the analysis was the SHGC.

  • Scenario 1: SHGC north 0.25, east 0.25, south 0.25, west 0.25
  • Scenario 2: SHGC north 0.51, east 0.51, south 0.51, west 0.25

Allowing for passive solar heat gain (high SHGC) through the windows on the east and south side could bring the annual heating load down as much as 10%, even though our building has a north-south orientation. The more a building has access to passive solar, i.e. lots of windows in the south elevation, the greater the potential to lower the annual heating load.

That said, any window slated for passive solar heat gain (high SHGC) would need proper summer shading or otherwise the winter heating savings may be lost in summer cooling needs.

Even the Energy Star program recognized the importance of the different climate zones and has structured the qualifying criteria for windows, doors and skylights accordingly.

Why the federal tax credit for consumer energy efficiency did not take the same approach is a mystery to me. I guess the intent is good but the execution is poor.

As for the $1,500 – we may not claim it on the windows alone, because we would like to benefit from passive solar heat gain. But we have the boiler, insulation and doors that will help us to claim the full amount.

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The world of windows

July 8th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Out of all items I have researched, looking into windows has taken by far the most time. And I am not talking about hours. I have spent days on figuring out what to do.

Why? Windows are a critical component in the energy efficient building envelope we would like to create. The objective is to have the window efficiency somewhat correspond to the R-value of the walls, which would make each investment worthwhile. To get there, we have to look at triple pane windows.

But they are a very big, if not the biggest, investment component in the building shell. Initial prices ranged from $400 to $1,300 for a 100 UI window. I suspected that the $450 must be a “too good to be true” case, while a commitment to the $1,300 window requires a level of obsession that I am lacking.

UI = unit inches (window width + window height = unit inches)

Looking at the energy performance helped me to narrow the field and get products organized. Four performance metrics of the NFRC ratings (National Fenestration Rating Council) help in that process.

U-value

The U-value is an expression of the heat transfer coefficient (or insulation value) and is determined according to the NFRC 100 test.

I initially used a U-value of 0.25 for the energy model, but hope to get it below 0.20, which would correspond to an R-value of 5 or greater. A window with a U-value of 0.20 or less would feel comfortable even during a cold winter day, as long as it is air tight (see also below).

Solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC)

SHGC reflects the heat gain in a space through a window and is determined according to the NFRC 200 test.

Solar gain can be a double sided sword. It could be desired in the wintertime for passive solar heat gain, but not so during summer. We would prefer passive solar heat gain through the east and south windows (SHGC of around 0.5), which we can shade during the summer months to prevent overheating. All westward facing windows should have a low SHGC, such as 0.25 or less.

Visible transmittance (VT)

VT is the amount of visible light that passes through the window and is determined according to the NFRC 200 test.

Some light will be blocked by the window frame and by various glass coatings. We would like to keep the VT at or above 0.4 to allow enough daylight into the building.

Air leakage (AL)

AL is a measure of air infiltration through and around a window (in cubic feet per minute per square foot [cfm/sf]) and is determined according to the AAMA/WDMA/CSA test.

Air infiltration is often overlooked but is rather critical to the window performance. What is the point of having a window with good U-value (say 0.20) if plenty of cold (or hot) air constantly leaks through the window.

The Efficient Window Collaborative recommends windows with an AL of 0.3 cfm/sf or less. That said, I have heard a number of times that 0.3 cfm/sf can feel uncomfortably drafty on a cold winter day. We would prefer an AL less than 0.05 cfm/sf.

See also:

Existing Homes: Selecting Energy Efficient Windows in Illinois

Questions About Replacement Windows & Energy?

Styles and materials

I learned that different styles of windows have different energy performance characteristics, although it really comes down to air leakage.

Double hung windows, the most common style, and sliders typically have a greater air leakage when compared to single hung, casement, awning and picture windows.

Because double hung and slider windows have two operable sections, outside wind pressure may push air in between the two sashes. Casement and awning windows are pressed into the jamb gasket when subjected to outside wind pressure, resulting in an even tighter seal.

Picture windows are non-operable and as such should not have an air leakage issue, unless they have a shoddy frame.

An item that influences the pricing of windows is the frame material. Vinyl is the most common and least expensive, but has an unfavorable environmental footprint and suffers from expansion and contraction with temperature change.

Aluminum frames need a really good thermal break to prevent heat loss or gain. Another option is a wood frame with aluminum cladding on the outside. These are very nice looking windows in my humble opinion.

Composite material frames (mixture of wood and plastics) are another higher end option and are sold as being virtually maintenance free. So are fiberglass frames, which have the reputation to last a long time.

Who sells high efficiency windows?

Good question. There are European models and a number of Canadian manufactures. I searched a lot for more local manufactures, with limited success. I did build a small product list, bit by bit, through recommendations, web searches and the reading of other green blogs.

Triple pane windows with a U-value of 0.20 or less seem a rarity in the U.S. market. The ones I found (U.S and Canada) were available with vinyl or fiberglass frames.

Return on investment (ROI)

I needed help to put the price of a window into the context of its energy efficiency and probable energy savings. The Efficient Window Collaborative has a very helpful web site that explains the basics and provides a window selection tool.

http://www.efficientwindows.org/selection.cfm

I found additional help in a simple to use energy model called RESFEN. It allowed me to input the performance metrics of the windows around the building and calculated the estimated energy costs or savings.

I now have accumulated a pretty good knowledge base, have a number of products, have an idea about the potential ROI, but still have to make a decision.

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Painfully slow

July 6th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Sounds real positive, doesn’t it? Well, after my little rant about the other side of green, I though it is appropriate to follow up with our re-pointing progress on the foundation wall – which is painfully slow. But so was the process of raking out the joints, which preceded the re-pointing.

Originally, I was all excited about restoring the foundation wall to its original beauty and having it exposed to the interior living space. Little did I know then about the time involved for the tasks at hand.

Before we began the re-pointing process I washed any remaining mortar residue and dust out of the joints. I also had to determine what type of mortar to use. Martin Bazula, a restoration mason, suggested that the original mortar was type O.

The replacement material (mortar for the re-pointing) should match the original material (mortar) as close as possible. So, type O mortar was what we mixed and used.


Because most of the joints were several inches deep, we had to re-point in several stages. On the first pass, we filled the joints half way and let the mortar set for a day or two. On the second pass, we finished filling the joints.

We again let the mortar set for a day or two before we added the finishing touch, which was brushing any excess mortar from the lime stone with a wire brush.

It was slow, but we are very happy about the end product, in particular if we consider where we started.

foundation-wall-01 foundation-wall-02

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Discovering the other side of green

July 3rd, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

When we went into this project we had a certain perception of green. Our goal is to eventually turn the house into a zero-energy building. We subsequently focused a lot on insulation and energy issues and associated gadgets such as solar hot water and photo voltaic.

An invaluable amount of research, a healthy learning curve and a lot of hands-on time began to morph that initial perception into something new – well, sort of new.

I had many conversations in the past with colleagues in the architectural field, colleagues that have an interest in historic preservation. When talking about green building technologies they made the case that they already were working green way before it became fashionable.

I heard what they were saying. I knew what they were saying. But I only recently got to appreciate the real depth of this statement.

Think about all the resources that went into the construction of our home in 1902, and think about the carbon foot print associated with it. The good news is that the building has lasted over 100 years already. And there is no reason why it could not last another 100, 200 or even 300 years.

This is where green begins: Spreading the energy input and carbon footprint of the initial construction thinner and thinner across the years with the increased age of the building. You can feel good about your energy efficient light bulb after you started with the preservation of and tender loving care for an old building.

The challenge

The problem is that there are a thousand very easy ways to screw up an old building, which would put a sudden stop to spreading out the initial impact.

It could be as simple as the lack of or wrong type of building maintenance. Ignoring the subtleties of moisture management and movement or the appropriate type of mortar for masonry repair work can inflict lasting and sometimes irreversible damage.

Unfortunately, the expertise on how these old buildings were put together and how they work is spread thin too. But this base knowledge is critical when it comes to retrofitting the old building stock with green building technologies.

Most of the excitement, talk and focus is on new green buildings, which does not help us with the existing building stock. I hope that the focus will shift to this sleeping giant soon, bringing back the expertise and knowledge and making it easier to access information on how to retrofit existing buildings with green technologies while preserving their integrity and longevity.

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Nail biter

June 27th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

We had an interesting day on Wednesday June 23rd. It started with a small earthquake shortly after lunch, followed by severe storms that quickly moved into the area. This was the first time that I heard the tornado sirens come on in Chicago.

I was working on masonry repairs in the basement when this all happened, the right place to be when the sirens go off! And the rain – it is not often that you get to see that kind of persistent downpour.

So much rain fell in fact, that I suddenly noticed a small trickle coming out of the storm sewer pipe that currently dead ends in the old grease trap.

sewer-layout-008

Eventually, that storm sewer stub will be connected to the downspout overflow, but we are not there yet, nor do we have an end cap on it. So – water starts to trickle from the city system out of the storm sewer into the grease trap.

Other than this one line, everything else is flood proof due to the sewer layout and check valve.

I was doing something else for a few seconds, and the next time I turned around the grease trap was almost full and the new storm line was submerged in water.

flooding-001

Just by the movement of the water, I could tell that the water was now gushing from the city system into the grease trap, and the water level kept rising.

I went into emergency mode, gathered all the tools from the basement and relocated them to the 1st floor, disconnected anything electrical that was close to the basement floor, and told the dog to get ready for a swim.

flooding-002

All things considered, I was sort of lucky. The downpour has been going on for a while and must have washed any raw sewage out of the combined city system. The water that was gushing into the grease trap appeared to be street runoff and did not smell of sewage, nor did I have any turds floating around (thankfully).

flooding-003

Well, as you see I had a few seconds to take pictures of the rising water. At this point it was slowly filling up the perimeter drain and gravel base under the basement floor. That hidden storage volume assured that the water rose slowly.

flooding-004

It kept rising to about one and a half inches below the top of the new concrete floor. The rain started to ease, the water stopped rising, and finally the flow reversed back into the city system. Whew, what a close call!

This was quite an experience, and I have wasted no time getting the storm sewer stub temporarily connected to the downspout.

flooding-005

This will stop access of water from the combined city sewer into our basement and prevent this kind of nail biter for the foreseeable future.

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Oops – or, what would I do different…

June 22nd, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

… next time?

We went through all the various steps leading to our new concrete floor. Now it’s time to wind down (just a little), look back and reflect. Reflect on what went well and what I would do differently the next time. Here are our lessons learned:

Use bigger zip ties

I purchased 4 inch zip ties to tie the pex tubing to the welded wire mesh. The 4 inch zip ties were the right size, but not the right strength.

When we poured the concrete floor and dragged the heavy concrete pump hose across the floor, the 4 inch zip ties popped left and right and went flying.

concrete-pump-03

I had to rush in and re-attach the pex with the much sturdier 8 inch zip ties. They are somewhat oversized, but deliver the strength that was needed.

zip-ties

Clean edges

The top of the bond break was meant as a guide for the finished floor elevation. While installing the vapor barrier, we extended the polyethylene sheathing above the bond break, folded it over and tagged it down. The idea was that we cut the excess off after the pour.

bond-breaks-01

The problem was that we now had obscured the clean and crisp edge of the bond breaks with layers of the vapor barrier. That made it difficult to get a real nice and clean finish along the edges.

Compacting

Not that this is critical, but next time I would rent again a small concrete vibrator. Same as we have used for the spread footings.

I would go around all edges and into all corners to make sure that the concrete fills into all nooks and crevices. Just pushing the concrete against the edge and into the corners didn’t quite fill all the gaps.

bond-breaks-02

How to move around

We have a basement front door, which was boarded up, and a basement back door through which we moved in and out during the pour.

We started with pour from the front towards the back. Once we were done with the pour we needed to get back to the front for the troweling process, but didn’t want to step through the fresh concrete in the back.

If I would have thought about opening the basement front door, we would not have had anything to worry about.

Duh – think!

Yep, this is where I hit the off switch on my brain and it really bothers me! What is wrong in the picture below?

sewer-01

I went to great length to insulate the basement floor and paid great attention to the thermal break issue – just not great enough.

Now I have my cast iron sewer work sticking out of the floor and in direct contact with the concrete. Iron is a pretty good thermal conductor and has the potential to zap quite a little bit of heat our of the radiant floor slab. I should have placed a bond break around all sewer work that penetrates the floor.

This would be a none-issue if the City of Chicago would allow the use of PVC Schedule 40 or HDPE piping for underground sewers. These two materials are not be best thermal conductors and would not represent such a big energy drain.

I am seriously considering going back and add the thermal break now, although it would have been so much easier before we poured the concrete!

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Pouring the basement floor

June 14th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

We are getting our new concrete floor! This is our big day after months of preparation and research.

The research was not only about the technical aspects of moisture management and how best to insulate, it also involved logistical questions, i.e. how do we get 21 cubic yards of concrete down into the basement.

There is really no good way to get the concrete directly from the truck to where we need it. We could get the chute of the truck to the very back of the basement, but how would we get all that concrete to the front?

Using wheelbarrows, such as for the spread footings, is not an option unless I am willing to spend several days on the pour. I was thinking of using 20 foot long portable conveyor belts. But how would I maneuver them in and out of the basement?

Pumping the concrete is my best option, as I had been told a number of times, and slowly came to accept. I could not find an equipment rental place that had small, trailer mounted pumps, but found a company with a small truck mounted pump that came with an operator.

concrete-pump-01

We can’t just pour any type of concrete into the pump, but need what is called a ‘pump mix’. It means that the concrete comes without air (concrete is often air entrained) and is a little lower on the stone content.

concrete-pump-02

I ordered and scheduled the pump mix a couple of days in advance. We set up the pump, the concrete arrived right on time and we were ready to go.


Oh boy, time can fly! We had three truck deliveries, spaced 20 minutes apart. We pumped and poured like there was no tomorrow. While pouring, we spread the concrete to a rough elevation.

When a large enough section was filled, Neil and Greg, the finishers, screened the fresh concrete to the finished elevation. Sort of like I screened the gravel base, but this was going much faster!

Once done, we took a little break to let the concrete set. Not for too long, because Neil had to go back to the front and start with the expansion joints while the concrete was still fresh enough.

expansion-joint-01

While Neil was taking care of the joints, Greg fired up the troweling machine to add the finishing touches to the floor, except for odd corners, which required hand troweling.

It was a long day, be we are sure glad to have this milestone behind us!

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