Archive for the ‘research’ Category

Deciding on exterior doors

Monday, August 30th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Maybe I should take a short break from the windows. How about doors instead? We still have to resolve the exterior door issue for the basement front and back.

Having secure doors that make a break-in difficult is important to us. My research earlier this year led me to a couple of commercial steel door products that would do the job and somewhat met our energy requirements. The problem was the price tag. Around $1,500 for a steel skin door with foam filled core and thermally broken steel door frame. Ouch!

We had the time to step back from the whole issue, rethink and wait for the lucky coincidence that may spark a new idea.

The new idea was triggered when we were looking at storm doors. We ran into a category called security storm doors.

Rather than spending $1,500 on a heavy duty commercial door that has no NFRC rating, we could spend up to $600 on a light duty residential steel door with a security storm door to the outside.

We have no illusion that the residential steel door, typically a gauge 22 or 24, would not offer the security of a commercial door, typically with a gauge 16 or 18. But that security deficit is bridged by the storm door, typically manufactured out of heavier duty steel.

We found an affordable product with a large laminated security glass pane and a three point lock system. I am sure someone could still break in, but only after having gotten the neighbors’ attention.

The security issue appears resolved, the price tag of $600 seems much more reasonable, but what about the energy side?

We had no problem finding an affordable, pre-hung, 22 gauge residential steel door with a foam core, a thermally broken aluminum threshold and U-value of 0.14 (R-value of about 7). The door has the ever-important NFRC rating and as such would qualify for the tax credit and comply with the Chicago Green Homes Program.

Now that we shifted the security performance onto the storm door, I also feel comfortable with the wooden door frame of the pre-hung steel door. That eliminates the worries about a thermally broken steel frame, satisfies our energy expectations and carries a much more reasonable price tag.

Furthermore, if we install the security door relatively airtight and with good weather stripping, we may be able to add another R-1+ to the whole assembly, which gives my energy-ego a big boost.

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Highly-Insulating (R-5) Windows and Low-e Storm Windows Volume Purchase Program

Tuesday, July 20th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Here is another incentive that may help us with the replacement window decision. This time it’s not a tax credit but a program by the Department of Energy (DOE) called the “Highly-Insulating (R-5) Windows and Low-e Storm Windows Volume Purchase Program”. I stumbled across it in a GreenBuildingAdvisor blog post.

“The aim of this volume purchase initiative is to work with industry and potential buyers to make highly insulated windows more affordable.”

… states the DOE web site. Hey, great! This is right up my alley. Anything that could make this big investment less hurtful on our pocketbook is welcome!

So, how does this program work? There are 30-plus vendors that qualified for the DOE volume purchasing program – vendors that sell “high performance windows” with U-value of 0.22 or less.

The windows volume purchase web page allows the user to browse through different window types for new construction, retrofit windows, patio doors and low-E storm windows. I can select my window size range (listed in unit inches [UI]) and get access to a list of participating vendors.

This program can be a real big time saver. Rather than going from vendor to vendor to find out if they have high performance windows, I have a preselected list right at my fingertips. The program is also an excellent resource to quickly find local vendors of high performance windows.

I began to call around to see how much savings I could expect from the program. This is where it got interesting. It was officially launched on May 27, 2010 and some participants are organized, others are not.

With some vendors, I communicated with a sales person who was designated to just deal with the DOE program sales, while others had no clue what I was talking about. I literally had to point them to the web site so they could see their name in the participating vendor list. Some had to get in touch with their corporate headquarters to investigate what this was all about.

This made it rather difficult to get my hands on the pricing information. I had to be very explicit and persistent that I was only interested in the DOE volume purchase initiative pricing structure, the same structure that had been submitted to and approved by the DOE.

Despite all the confusion I caused with my inquiries, I eventually got some pricing that appeared to be in line with the DOE program.

Because we are about to replace the basement windows, I used their size range (up to 70 UI) for my inquiry and got a price spread of $138.00 to $328.00.

window-matrix-01

I am not sure, but my gut tells me that some of the prices are not that different from the regular sales prices, which puts into question the objective of “making highly insulated windows more affordable”.

But so what? I still can get a 70 UI high performance window for under $200, right?

Well – you have to look out for the air leakage (AL) rate. Like I contemplated earlier, the insulation value of a window can be negated by a high AL rate. If we would like to keep the AL below 0.05 cfm/sf, we are looking at more than $200.00 per window.

As helpful as the DOE program is, it is important to remember that there are windows that are even more efficient than those included in the program. That is why I kept the Uniframe double hung by Great Lakes Windows in my list.

The question now is if the price delta to the next runner up (the Serious Windows product) can be justified by additional energy savings.

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The world of windows

Thursday, July 8th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Out of all items I have researched, looking into windows has taken by far the most time. And I am not talking about hours. I have spent days on figuring out what to do.

Why? Windows are a critical component in the energy efficient building envelope we would like to create. The objective is to have the window efficiency somewhat correspond to the R-value of the walls, which would make each investment worthwhile. To get there, we have to look at triple pane windows.

But they are a very big, if not the biggest, investment component in the building shell. Initial prices ranged from $400 to $1,300 for a 100 UI window. I suspected that the $450 must be a “too good to be true” case, while a commitment to the $1,300 window requires a level of obsession that I am lacking.

UI = unit inches (window width + window height = unit inches)

Looking at the energy performance helped me to narrow the field and get products organized. Four performance metrics of the NFRC ratings (National Fenestration Rating Council) help in that process.

U-value

The U-value is an expression of the heat transfer coefficient (or insulation value) and is determined according to the NFRC 100 test.

I initially used a U-value of 0.25 for the energy model, but hope to get it below 0.20, which would correspond to an R-value of 5 or greater. A window with a U-value of 0.20 or less would feel comfortable even during a cold winter day, as long as it is air tight (see also below).

Solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC)

SHGC reflects the heat gain in a space through a window and is determined according to the NFRC 200 test.

Solar gain can be a double sided sword. It could be desired in the wintertime for passive solar heat gain, but not so during summer. We would prefer passive solar heat gain through the east and south windows (SHGC of around 0.5), which we can shade during the summer months to prevent overheating. All westward facing windows should have a low SHGC, such as 0.25 or less.

Visible transmittance (VT)

VT is the amount of visible light that passes through the window and is determined according to the NFRC 200 test.

Some light will be blocked by the window frame and by various glass coatings. We would like to keep the VT at or above 0.4 to allow enough daylight into the building.

Air leakage (AL)

AL is a measure of air infiltration through and around a window (in cubic feet per minute per square foot [cfm/sf]) and is determined according to the AAMA/WDMA/CSA test.

Air infiltration is often overlooked but is rather critical to the window performance. What is the point of having a window with good U-value (say 0.20) if plenty of cold (or hot) air constantly leaks through the window.

The Efficient Window Collaborative recommends windows with an AL of 0.3 cfm/sf or less. That said, I have heard a number of times that 0.3 cfm/sf can feel uncomfortably drafty on a cold winter day. We would prefer an AL less than 0.05 cfm/sf.

See also:

Existing Homes: Selecting Energy Efficient Windows in Illinois

Questions About Replacement Windows & Energy?

Styles and materials

I learned that different styles of windows have different energy performance characteristics, although it really comes down to air leakage.

Double hung windows, the most common style, and sliders typically have a greater air leakage when compared to single hung, casement, awning and picture windows.

Because double hung and slider windows have two operable sections, outside wind pressure may push air in between the two sashes. Casement and awning windows are pressed into the jamb gasket when subjected to outside wind pressure, resulting in an even tighter seal.

Picture windows are non-operable and as such should not have an air leakage issue, unless they have a shoddy frame.

An item that influences the pricing of windows is the frame material. Vinyl is the most common and least expensive, but has an unfavorable environmental footprint and suffers from expansion and contraction with temperature change.

Aluminum frames need a really good thermal break to prevent heat loss or gain. Another option is a wood frame with aluminum cladding on the outside. These are very nice looking windows in my humble opinion.

Composite material frames (mixture of wood and plastics) are another higher end option and are sold as being virtually maintenance free. So are fiberglass frames, which have the reputation to last a long time.

Who sells high efficiency windows?

Good question. There are European models and a number of Canadian manufactures. I searched a lot for more local manufactures, with limited success. I did build a small product list, bit by bit, through recommendations, web searches and the reading of other green blogs.

Triple pane windows with a U-value of 0.20 or less seem a rarity in the U.S. market. The ones I found (U.S and Canada) were available with vinyl or fiberglass frames.

Return on investment (ROI)

I needed help to put the price of a window into the context of its energy efficiency and probable energy savings. The Efficient Window Collaborative has a very helpful web site that explains the basics and provides a window selection tool.

http://www.efficientwindows.org/selection.cfm

I found additional help in a simple to use energy model called RESFEN. It allowed me to input the performance metrics of the windows around the building and calculated the estimated energy costs or savings.

I now have accumulated a pretty good knowledge base, have a number of products, have an idea about the potential ROI, but still have to make a decision.

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Counting pathogens

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

I shared my sense about composting toilets, which are typically not allowed in a municipality such as Chicago. If so, it is usually on the grounds of public health safety concerns. The rationale, as I understand it, is that the risk of biological contamination with pathogens through the composted end product of composting toilets is considered too great.

Let’s indulge in a little experimental thinking – shall we?

What is the actual biological contamination risk from the composting toilet end product – or – how many pathogens would we set free? According to the EPA, a correctly operated and maintained composting toilet should produce “less than 200 MPN per gram of fecal coliforms”. (MPN = most probable number).

Is this safe? Well, I am not quite sure what to do with this number. So let’s look at this in a different way.

Chicago and many other cities have a combined sewer system. These systems can get overwhelmed in heavy storms and lead to discharge of raw sewage. In Chicago that raw sewage would end up in the Chicago River and Lake Michigan.

What would be the pathogen count for a raw sewage overflow from the combined sewer system in Chicago? What would be the MPN per gram of fecal coliform for such a discharge? Or, how many composting toilets could we run for how long to have equal counts, i.e. equal health risk?

I would love to know if anyone ever crunched these numbers – sitting on a composting toilet!

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What pipe material to use?

Thursday, February 25th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Let’s keep the momentum. Let’s rant some more about green stuff.

The old sewer clay tiles need replacing; that decision has been made. But what material should the new sewer be made of?

This decision is made for us, and the answer is given in the Chicago plumbing code. All concealed (i.e. buried) sanitary sewers within a building must be cast iron soil pipe (CISP).

Iron? For waste water? In soil? Wow – wait a minute. This doesn’t make sense! Isn’t iron subject to corrosion? It may rust from the inside and outside. We are using low flow and low flush systems, which reduces the dilution of any acid based liquids (such as urine) and increases the probability of corrosion within a cast iron sewer pipe.

We will use a high efficiency condensing boiler. The condensate from such a boiler is known to be corrosive and further increases the probability of corrosion within a CISP. What about the longevity of this thing? Once I am done replacing it, I never want to touch it again, even if I get to be a 100 years old!

CISP Institute information proceeds to inform me that cast iron pipe are highly durable and probably the best material to use. Well, this is sort of expected. But I still have a hard time believing that CISP is as corrosion resistant as HDPE (high density polyethylene) or PVC (polyvinyl chloride) piping. Resistance of HDPE pipes is rated from pH 1.5 to pH 14, according to a sales representative. So maybe I need to take this with a grain of salt too!

Because HDPE or PVC pipes have good corrosion resistance, they also maintain good flow and slide characteristics, which in turn reduce maintenance or blockage compared to CISP’s.

And there is the carbon footprint issue. Wouldn’t you expect cast iron to have a much larger carbon footprint compared to HDPE or PVC? Time to find out.

The International Centre for the Environment (ICE) at the University of Bath (England) has published the ‘Inventory of Carbon & Energy’ for various building materials. I found data for all three materials (cast HDPE, PVC and iron) and was able to calculate the following carbon footprint per linear foot of a 4 inch sewer:

pipe-carbon-foot-print

Even though the cast iron sewer has the biggest carbon footprint, the CISP Institute points to the recycled content of the product and labels it green (see page 131 of the CISP and Fittings Handbook).

PVC is a distant second, but is no angel. The production of polyvinyl chloride has all sorts of environmental issues associated with it. PVC piping (such as Schedule 40) is very popular though because of its low cost and ease of installation.

HDPE appears to have the lowest carbon footprint out of the three materials. It seems to have a better reputation than PVC with regard to environmental issues and is recyclable. It is more difficult to install compared to PVC and requires fusion or welding equipment for moist pipe joints.

Thinking this all through, and assuming that I have my facts straight, I really would like to use HDPE piping for the sewer replacement.

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Deciphering the existing sewer

Thursday, February 18th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

After I was done exposing the sewers, I just scratched my head looking at the layout. But with time, I pieced together the intent and figured out how it worked.

At the north end of the building, where the sewer exits toward the street, I have this cast iron piece, which turns out to be a check valve. This valve prevents sewage from backing up into the basement if the city sewer system gets overwhelmed. It is probably also the reason why we found no evidence of flooding in the basement.

check-valve-01

Having sewage backing up into the basement is a real issue in Chicago, with its combined sewer system. A combined system basically transports sewage from buildings along with stormwater runoff from building, streets and parking lots in one and the same pipe system.

If it rains really hard, that pipe system may not have enough flow capacity to handle the runoff volume, which can lead to the infamous basement flooding. A check valve can prevent this.

But, once the check valve is closed, how does any sewage leave the building? This is where this other piece of pipe comes into play – the overflow.

check-valve-02

With the valve closed, and sewage stacking up in the pipe, it eventually will spill out through the overflow into an ejector pit. I have the ejector pit already removed, but it is basically a round catch basin, 18 inches across and 30 inches deep.

check-valve-03

At the bottom of the pit is a sump that picks up any spill over and pumps it under pressure into the street side of the check valve.

check-valve-04

A check valve like this needs regular maintenance, such as greasing once a year. Our check valve here hasn’t seen any maintenance in God knows how many years. I am even not sure if it still works.

The sump pump also needs regular checking to make sure that it will work when needed, i.e. during flooding. Flooding usually comes with heavy storms, which may also cause a power outage. In that case, I am still protected from sewage backing up into the building thanks to the check valve, but I can’t use the bathrooms because the pump won’t work - unless I have a battery backup.

Huh! I don’t know about this. Should I keep the system with the check valve and sump, or should I look for another solution?

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Insulation riddle resolved

Thursday, February 4th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

I spent a lot of time last October and November researching appropriate insulation options. In the post “Insulation – how much is needed?“, I described the SPF (spray polyurethane foam) phenomenon of diminishing returns.

I somewhat understood the concept of this effect, but had no information on the actual process or cause. So I asked whether anyone had more information on this.

Lo and behold, I received a comment on the post from a gentleman called R. Tom:

“… a report that illustrates a scenario that uses Fourier’s steady-state heat flow equation to evaluate the performance of a typical wall area with a prescribed R performance value. The results are quite profound… it indicates, basically, that the first inch of [SPF] insulation represents 80% of the heat flow reduction in the system, the next inch 9%, the next inch 3%, the next inch 2%, the next two inches 1% each and the next four inches only 1%! So in the first 2″ you are getting 89% of the total performance realized in your [SPF] insulation assembly.”

The report R. Tom mentions is a publication by Icynene Inc., describing the testing process, providing the math and plotting the results in various graphs.

My first thought was: “Is this for real?” I forwarded the report to a mechanical engineer I respect and asked for his opinion. He agreed with the rationales and results of the report.

Here is what my sleepy little brain cells retained. There are three types of heat flow:

  1. Conductive heat flow
  2. Convective heat flow
  3. Radiant heat flow

The R-value is a measure of the conductive heat flow resistance through a material, but ignores the influence of convective and radiant heat flow. SPF insulation has an R-value of 3.6 per inch thickness (as per the report). If properly applied, SPF can eliminate air infiltration (or convective heat flow), and thus delivers up to 89% of the total performance in the first 2 inches. I think I sort of get this.

My second thought was: “How does this impact our project? Do I need to rethink our insulation strategy?” The answer is yes. Now that I understand the effectiveness of the first two inches of SPF and the decline thereafter, I would like to look again at various insulation materials and their performance, cost and environmental footprint.

PS: I found a great website that explains SPF in plain language:

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Door follow up

Tuesday, February 2nd, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

I can’t get the issue of the heat loss through a standard steel door frame out of my mind. I keep thinking of potential condensation issue, associated moisture problems and what difference a frame with a thermal break could make.

Then, just the other day, I found myself staring at a perfect example of heat transfer, heat loss, and subsequently condensation. It wasn’t a typical steel door frame, but an aluminum frame window.  Still the same principles apply.

basement-front-door-02

In cold weather, the aluminum frame loses heat to the outside, cooling down below the dew point on the inside, which causes the condensation.

On the vertical surface of a typical steel door frame, the condensate is likely to run down and collect on the floor. Here it could cause moisture problems, such as rust at the bottom of the steel frame, and could also lead to mold growth.

It is good to have come across a visual reference on what the problems looks like. Test data on a thermal break frame are encouraging and could, I’d like to think, eliminate this problem of excessive heat loss and condensation.

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Sound asleep?

Sunday, January 31st, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

While researching exterior doors for the basement, I visited a number of home improvement stores, but not by choice!

I started online, looking for available products. I found some products alright, but little meaningful information on their energy performance. Recently, some stores added eco or green categories to their product lists, which filter eco or green items (in my case qualifying exterior doors). I am still left guessing what eco or green means, because no or little definitions are offered.

Depending on the store, you may or may not learn if the door is Energy Star qualified, but there is no word anywhere on the NFRC rating or the products R-value or U-value. To get this information I had to go into the store and look for the labels and ratings on the actual product.

In these days of a $1,500 Federal Tax Credit, green building programs and incentives, this information (such as the energy performance on a door) determines if a product cuts it or not. Wouldn’t you think that the retailers would fall over themselves, including this information on their product web pages?

I have the suspicion that somebody in the marketing department is sound asleep!

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Confusing doors

Tuesday, January 26th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

I wrote about the masonry repair work around the basement front door.

basement-front-door-01

That work is done, but I still need a new door and looking for one quickly turned confusing.

I started with a visit to various home improvement stores. What I found were exterior rated doors with a 24 or 22 gauge steel skin, insulated foam core and wood frame. The good news is that these doors are typically Energy Star qualified and are eligible for the $1,500 Federal Tax Credit.

The bad news is that they don’t offer enough security and could easily be kicked in. That is what happened with the original door, which had not only a steel skin but also a light gauge steel frame!  We consider the basement front door to be the most vulnerable to a break-in, as it is tucked away in a little staircase alongside the house.

I wanted to know where the professionals get their doors and asked my contractor friends. The first thing I learned is that I am probably looking for a commercial grade door rather than a residential door.

Commercial doors come with a heavier steel skin (typ. 18 gauge) and sound steel frame (typ. 16 and 14 gauge). There is no kicking in this door without getting the attention of the whole block.

That takes care of the security, but what about the energy side? We put a lot of work into good insulation and efficient windows. Having a poorly insulated exterior door would leave a gaping hole in the building shell and defeat the investment into an efficient building envelope.

While visiting and talking to a number of commercial vendors, I had to be very persistent with my inquiry about insulated doors. Once they noticed that I was serious, various product information appeared from back office filing cabinets.

Door examples:

I had to be even more persistent on the door frame! What is the point on spending close to $500 on an insulated door, when an uninterrupted (one-piece) steel frame turns into a thermal highway? During wintertime, such frame has energy loss, condensation and moisture problems written all over it.

Ceco Door - Thermal Break Frame

Ceco Door - Thermal Break Frame

It turns out that, after all, there are steel frames with built-in thermal breaks and that the frame profile can be filled with spray foam insulation.

Next question: How energy efficient are these commercial grade doors or assemblies?

Almost all residential doors come with a NFRC rating and tell you whether they are Energy Star qualified. This allows the consumer to compare apples to apples and determine if the product qualifies for the $1,500 Federal Tax Credit.

Commercial grade doors, on the other hand, exist in their own world, with no NFRC rating or Energy Star labels. I even called the manufactures and checked! What is provided are two R-values (calculated and operable), which differ by a factor of three to four. Confused? Me too!

Why does this matter?

Because the NFRC rating and Energy Star labels are prerequisites for credits in the Chicago Green Homes program (for which we have signed up) and the $1,500 tax credit. Looks like I will have a hell of a time to reconcile the security issue with the energy side. Anyone have any suggestions?

  • PS: If you are looking into doors and windows with the Energy Star label, note that the Energy Star program has new performance levels starting 01-04-2010. It is growing some teeth – finally!
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