Posts Tagged ‘insulation’

Deciding on exterior doors

Monday, August 30th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Maybe I should take a short break from the windows. How about doors instead? We still have to resolve the exterior door issue for the basement front and back.

Having secure doors that make a break-in difficult is important to us. My research earlier this year led me to a couple of commercial steel door products that would do the job and somewhat met our energy requirements. The problem was the price tag. Around $1,500 for a steel skin door with foam filled core and thermally broken steel door frame. Ouch!

We had the time to step back from the whole issue, rethink and wait for the lucky coincidence that may spark a new idea.

The new idea was triggered when we were looking at storm doors. We ran into a category called security storm doors.

Rather than spending $1,500 on a heavy duty commercial door that has no NFRC rating, we could spend up to $600 on a light duty residential steel door with a security storm door to the outside.

We have no illusion that the residential steel door, typically a gauge 22 or 24, would not offer the security of a commercial door, typically with a gauge 16 or 18. But that security deficit is bridged by the storm door, typically manufactured out of heavier duty steel.

We found an affordable product with a large laminated security glass pane and a three point lock system. I am sure someone could still break in, but only after having gotten the neighbors’ attention.

The security issue appears resolved, the price tag of $600 seems much more reasonable, but what about the energy side?

We had no problem finding an affordable, pre-hung, 22 gauge residential steel door with a foam core, a thermally broken aluminum threshold and U-value of 0.14 (R-value of about 7). The door has the ever-important NFRC rating and as such would qualify for the tax credit and comply with the Chicago Green Homes Program.

Now that we shifted the security performance onto the storm door, I also feel comfortable with the wooden door frame of the pre-hung steel door. That eliminates the worries about a thermally broken steel frame, satisfies our energy expectations and carries a much more reasonable price tag.

Furthermore, if we install the security door relatively airtight and with good weather stripping, we may be able to add another R-1+ to the whole assembly, which gives my energy-ego a big boost.

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Tax credit folly?

Sunday, July 18th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

We stepped deep into window research, but we still have to make a decision on what windows to use. Because they will be a very big investment, any type of rebates, financial incentives or tax credits will influence this decision.

Federal Tax Credits for Consumer Energy Efficiency

… or, more commonly known as the $1,500 tax credit that expires on December 31, 2010.

The total of $1,500 can be applied across a range of energy efficient upgrades, such as furnaces, water heaters, insulation, doors and – yes – windows. This made us very happy as we were convinced that we could claim the $1,500 in a heartbeat on our new windows … until I looked at the fine print.

Qualifying windows must have a U-value of 0.30 [LINK] and Solar Heat Gain Coefficient (SHGC) of 0.30 (see also ‘The world of windows’ post).

This is a federal tax credit, available nationwide, from Alaska to Florida and Southern California to Maine, intended to stimulate the economy and improve the energy efficiency of existing homes.

Now, wait a minute, how can that energy efficiency thing work with this one requirement (U-value of 0.30 and SHGC of 0.30) across a number of different climate zones? Down south, a very low SHGC is probably of interest while the U-value would not matter that greatly. It would be the reverse up north, where the insulation value (U-value) counts and passive solar heat gain (high SHGC) may actually be desirable.

Take our house in Chicago. I ran a quick window analysis for the 1st and 2nd floor with the RESFEN model. The only variable in the analysis was the SHGC.

  • Scenario 1: SHGC north 0.25, east 0.25, south 0.25, west 0.25
  • Scenario 2: SHGC north 0.51, east 0.51, south 0.51, west 0.25

Allowing for passive solar heat gain (high SHGC) through the windows on the east and south side could bring the annual heating load down as much as 10%, even though our building has a north-south orientation. The more a building has access to passive solar, i.e. lots of windows in the south elevation, the greater the potential to lower the annual heating load.

That said, any window slated for passive solar heat gain (high SHGC) would need proper summer shading or otherwise the winter heating savings may be lost in summer cooling needs.

Even the Energy Star program recognized the importance of the different climate zones and has structured the qualifying criteria for windows, doors and skylights accordingly.

Why the federal tax credit for consumer energy efficiency did not take the same approach is a mystery to me. I guess the intent is good but the execution is poor.

As for the $1,500 – we may not claim it on the windows alone, because we would like to benefit from passive solar heat gain. But we have the boiler, insulation and doors that will help us to claim the full amount.

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The world of windows

Thursday, July 8th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Out of all items I have researched, looking into windows has taken by far the most time. And I am not talking about hours. I have spent days on figuring out what to do.

Why? Windows are a critical component in the energy efficient building envelope we would like to create. The objective is to have the window efficiency somewhat correspond to the R-value of the walls, which would make each investment worthwhile. To get there, we have to look at triple pane windows.

But they are a very big, if not the biggest, investment component in the building shell. Initial prices ranged from $400 to $1,300 for a 100 UI window. I suspected that the $450 must be a “too good to be true” case, while a commitment to the $1,300 window requires a level of obsession that I am lacking.

UI = unit inches (window width + window height = unit inches)

Looking at the energy performance helped me to narrow the field and get products organized. Four performance metrics of the NFRC ratings (National Fenestration Rating Council) help in that process.

U-value

The U-value is an expression of the heat transfer coefficient (or insulation value) and is determined according to the NFRC 100 test.

I initially used a U-value of 0.25 for the energy model, but hope to get it below 0.20, which would correspond to an R-value of 5 or greater. A window with a U-value of 0.20 or less would feel comfortable even during a cold winter day, as long as it is air tight (see also below).

Solar heat gain coefficient (SHGC)

SHGC reflects the heat gain in a space through a window and is determined according to the NFRC 200 test.

Solar gain can be a double sided sword. It could be desired in the wintertime for passive solar heat gain, but not so during summer. We would prefer passive solar heat gain through the east and south windows (SHGC of around 0.5), which we can shade during the summer months to prevent overheating. All westward facing windows should have a low SHGC, such as 0.25 or less.

Visible transmittance (VT)

VT is the amount of visible light that passes through the window and is determined according to the NFRC 200 test.

Some light will be blocked by the window frame and by various glass coatings. We would like to keep the VT at or above 0.4 to allow enough daylight into the building.

Air leakage (AL)

AL is a measure of air infiltration through and around a window (in cubic feet per minute per square foot [cfm/sf]) and is determined according to the AAMA/WDMA/CSA test.

Air infiltration is often overlooked but is rather critical to the window performance. What is the point of having a window with good U-value (say 0.20) if plenty of cold (or hot) air constantly leaks through the window.

The Efficient Window Collaborative recommends windows with an AL of 0.3 cfm/sf or less. That said, I have heard a number of times that 0.3 cfm/sf can feel uncomfortably drafty on a cold winter day. We would prefer an AL less than 0.05 cfm/sf.

See also:

Existing Homes: Selecting Energy Efficient Windows in Illinois

Questions About Replacement Windows & Energy?

Styles and materials

I learned that different styles of windows have different energy performance characteristics, although it really comes down to air leakage.

Double hung windows, the most common style, and sliders typically have a greater air leakage when compared to single hung, casement, awning and picture windows.

Because double hung and slider windows have two operable sections, outside wind pressure may push air in between the two sashes. Casement and awning windows are pressed into the jamb gasket when subjected to outside wind pressure, resulting in an even tighter seal.

Picture windows are non-operable and as such should not have an air leakage issue, unless they have a shoddy frame.

An item that influences the pricing of windows is the frame material. Vinyl is the most common and least expensive, but has an unfavorable environmental footprint and suffers from expansion and contraction with temperature change.

Aluminum frames need a really good thermal break to prevent heat loss or gain. Another option is a wood frame with aluminum cladding on the outside. These are very nice looking windows in my humble opinion.

Composite material frames (mixture of wood and plastics) are another higher end option and are sold as being virtually maintenance free. So are fiberglass frames, which have the reputation to last a long time.

Who sells high efficiency windows?

Good question. There are European models and a number of Canadian manufactures. I searched a lot for more local manufactures, with limited success. I did build a small product list, bit by bit, through recommendations, web searches and the reading of other green blogs.

Triple pane windows with a U-value of 0.20 or less seem a rarity in the U.S. market. The ones I found (U.S and Canada) were available with vinyl or fiberglass frames.

Return on investment (ROI)

I needed help to put the price of a window into the context of its energy efficiency and probable energy savings. The Efficient Window Collaborative has a very helpful web site that explains the basics and provides a window selection tool.

http://www.efficientwindows.org/selection.cfm

I found additional help in a simple to use energy model called RESFEN. It allowed me to input the performance metrics of the windows around the building and calculated the estimated energy costs or savings.

I now have accumulated a pretty good knowledge base, have a number of products, have an idea about the potential ROI, but still have to make a decision.

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2nd layer of insulation

Tuesday, June 8th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

With the bond breaks in place and the 1st layer of insulation taped up, I can proceed with the installation of a 2nd layer.

iso-insulation-01

Back in February, I purchased a truckload of one inch thick salvaged ISO sheets (Polyisocyanurate), which will add another R-6.5. That will give us a minimum total R-value of 16.5 for the two inch XPS and one inch ISO sheets.

Unlike the XPS insulation, which I cut with a handsaw, the one inch ISO sheets were easy to cut with a heavy duty utility knife. I used the drywall square as a guide and am glad to report that I still have all my fingers.


The one inch ISO sheets are tightly fit against the bond breaks and should help to keep them in place during the concrete pour. The question is, how could I effectively achieve that tight fit considering the subtle irregularities along the foundation wall?

Here is where watching This Old House on PBS pays off! On a couple of occasions, the show demonstrated the use of a scribe tool, which looks like a compass and is used to trace and transcribe irregular and uneven edges.

scribe-01

This was a small investment that saved a lot of time. With the insulation in place, I have another item struck off my task list.

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Bond break

Sunday, June 6th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Are we done with the insulation yet? Oh no! The devil is in the details, as I found out during my research on how to put the basement floor back together.

An insulation installation can easily become ineffective, unless the contractor or owner has some understanding of how to minimize heat loss. If heat loss, such as thermal bridging, is not managed properly it can get costly, because of the dollar amount spent on insulation and limited energy savings.

See also: Thermal control in buildings (buildingscience.com)

We plan on radiant heat in the new basement floor. The horizontal interface between the floor and underlying soil is rather large, and so is the heat loss potential.

The rigid foam board insulation that I began to install is one big thermal break, minimizing the heat loss into Mother Earth. Every unit of heat I don’t lose downwards will be available to heat the basement living space instead.

I also have to worry about thermal bridging along vertical interfaces, along the edge of the new concrete slab. This is a detail often overlooked or neglected.

To prevent thermal bridging from the concrete floor through the foundation wall down into the soil, I have to install a small vertical piece of insulation along the edge, also called bond break (see also sketch below).

basement-floor-07

The bond break is simply another piece of 2 inch thick XPS insulation placed vertically along the foundation wall. I cut and placed it so that the top of the bond break is at the finished basement floor elevation. As such, they serve as an elevation guide, which will make the pouring of the concrete floor much easier.


But first and foremost, the bond break directs heat into the living space where we want it.

What else would contribute to heat loss? Well, I have the footings of the existing steel columns and new spread footings.

spread-footing-01

Both are in direct contact with the thermal mass of the soil below and as such should receive a bond break at the interface to the concrete floor.

bond-breaks

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Starting with the insulation

Saturday, June 5th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

I have been sitting on my salvaged insulation for quite a while, but have finally come to the point where I get to use it.

The aggregate base is installed, which allows me to move the 2 inch thick XPS sheets into the basement. I picked the northwest corner as a starting point.

Because none of the foundation walls are really square at the corners, but the XPS sheets are, I began laying down an oversized L-shape and adjusted the directions until the insulation sheets were as square as it could be in my old, crooked but beloved basement.

(See, the German in me is showing through again…)


While I am on the subject, I spent some time cutting the insulation sheet edges to match the subtly changing directions of the foundation wall.

Although I got the salvaged XPS sheets for cheap, I had to put some time in to check that they were square. Some edges were cut at a slight angle for the previous job, some edges had dents, or some corners had broken off.

Regardless what the imperfection was, I bought a big drywall square, scored the boards that needed attention, and cut the square back into them with a simple hand saw. The cutting with the handsaw worked really well.

The spread footings! Let’s not forget about the spread footings. I have to cut an 18 by 18 inch square out of the insulation at the spread footing location. That square will receive the spread footing pedestal.

These two inch XPS sheets are only the first layer in the insulation assembly. But they give me an insulation value of R-10 already. We could physically feel that.

Whereas previously the thermal mass of the soil and stone in the basement floor has kept the temperature down, that cooling power is now blocked and we could feel it warming up.

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Spread footing detail

Saturday, May 8th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

On the road to the new basement floor, I have to put some thought into the spread footings. How do they fit into the rest of the basement floor assembly?

Let’s start with the energy side of things. It is important to keep the spread footing below the basement floor insulation to minimize the horizontal thermal bridging. Another one inch of insulation around the footing pedestal reduces the vertical thermal bridging, and at the same time acts as an expansion joint.

spread-footing-01

For proper moisture management, we include a vapor barrier between the insulation and concrete floor, which we turn up vertical at the footing pedestal. To prevent moisture from traveling up into the pedestal, it is placed on a damp-proof layer , separating it from the spread footing.

This allows for a straightforward installation sequence. I can pour the spread footing first, followed by the installation of the aggregate base, insulation and vapor barriers. The pedestal is then poured along with the new concrete floor.

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Seasonal High Water Table

Sunday, April 4th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

The recent snow melt, followed by some good rains, have saturated our soils like it does almost every spring. This is a good time to check for a seasonal high water table (SHWT), and if there is one, for its elevation.

Like the name suggests, this is a seasonal occurrence, creating a soil zone of intermittent saturation. A SHWT may also occur after prolonged periods of very heavy precipitation.

At our previous pilot project in Elmhurst, the elevation of the SHWT was relatively high. Whoever built that house at around 1900 knew exactly where that elevation was, and made sure that the basement floor was above it.

Was this smart or a necessity? Probably both because pumping, like a sump pump, may not have been an option at the time, or may have been very expensive.

Fast forward to post-World War Two construction. Sump pumps became available and the design principle of keeping the basement floor up and above in the dry fell off the radar. Almost all of our neighbors in Elmhurst had deeper basements with sump pumps. And with it comes the energy consumption, maintenance, and worries about power outages.

The timing of all the excavation work in our basement was good. I dug one hole for what I thought would be an ejector pit. At the time of digging the bottom was almost dry. That changed as soon as the snow started melting and the rains kicked in.

ground-water-01

The water kept rising over a number of weeks until it hit an elevation of 27 inches under the basement floor. It was a huge relief knowing that our basement floor is a safe distance from the SHWT and that we won’t need a sump, at least not for this purpose.

ground-water-02

But it also keeps me worrying. This is a lot of water close enough to the basement to present serious moisture problems. I am sure glad that we have plans for a vapor barrier under the new basement floor. This will significantly reduce the risk of excess moisture.

I am also glad to have plans for the perimeter drain, but are wondering how much it will really help to keep the foundation wall dry. Because I don’t have a capillary break between the footing and the foundation, I leave a passage for that water to move up.

What will help is to keep the foundation wall exposed in the basement to let it dry out. Covering it up with insulation and drywall would trap the moisture and cause mold growth. I’d rather insulate the foundation wall from the outside.

I will also have to make sure that the basement is very well ventilated to remove any excess moisture and subsequent humidity. Just opening the windows won’t cut it. It may still be too cold in early spring to do so. What is needed here is mechanical ventilation.

I still wish I could somehow introduce a capillary break between the footing and the foundation…

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A good day…

Friday, February 19th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

… because I got to be frugal again!

Back in December I purchased salvaged insulation for the basement floor. It was half as much as I need and I kept looking for more, without any luck. Would I run out of time? Well, that is sort of ridiculous (at least in hindsight) because I still have quite a bit of work ahead of me before I can install the insulation.

This week I ran into another source for salvaged insulation, called the Insulation Depot. I found a local reseller and finally have all the insulation I need.

iso-insulation-01

This time, the sheets are not the XPS type, but the even better performing ISO type. In addition, the ISO sheets have less of an environmental impact, as Tom McGrath pointed out in a blog comment.

Whether XPS or ISO, I get the feel-good factor knowing that this salvaged material is going to good use under my basement floor, and not into the landfill! But for now, it is just sitting, waiting for me to get done with the sewers.

iso-insulation-02

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Insulation riddle resolved

Thursday, February 4th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

I spent a lot of time last October and November researching appropriate insulation options. In the post “Insulation – how much is needed?“, I described the SPF (spray polyurethane foam) phenomenon of diminishing returns.

I somewhat understood the concept of this effect, but had no information on the actual process or cause. So I asked whether anyone had more information on this.

Lo and behold, I received a comment on the post from a gentleman called R. Tom:

“… a report that illustrates a scenario that uses Fourier’s steady-state heat flow equation to evaluate the performance of a typical wall area with a prescribed R performance value. The results are quite profound… it indicates, basically, that the first inch of [SPF] insulation represents 80% of the heat flow reduction in the system, the next inch 9%, the next inch 3%, the next inch 2%, the next two inches 1% each and the next four inches only 1%! So in the first 2″ you are getting 89% of the total performance realized in your [SPF] insulation assembly.”

The report R. Tom mentions is a publication by Icynene Inc., describing the testing process, providing the math and plotting the results in various graphs.

My first thought was: “Is this for real?” I forwarded the report to a mechanical engineer I respect and asked for his opinion. He agreed with the rationales and results of the report.

Here is what my sleepy little brain cells retained. There are three types of heat flow:

  1. Conductive heat flow
  2. Convective heat flow
  3. Radiant heat flow

The R-value is a measure of the conductive heat flow resistance through a material, but ignores the influence of convective and radiant heat flow. SPF insulation has an R-value of 3.6 per inch thickness (as per the report). If properly applied, SPF can eliminate air infiltration (or convective heat flow), and thus delivers up to 89% of the total performance in the first 2 inches. I think I sort of get this.

My second thought was: “How does this impact our project? Do I need to rethink our insulation strategy?” The answer is yes. Now that I understand the effectiveness of the first two inches of SPF and the decline thereafter, I would like to look again at various insulation materials and their performance, cost and environmental footprint.

PS: I found a great website that explains SPF in plain language:

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