Posts Tagged ‘utilities’

Nail biter

Sunday, June 27th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

We had an interesting day on Wednesday June 23rd. It started with a small earthquake shortly after lunch, followed by severe storms that quickly moved into the area. This was the first time that I heard the tornado sirens come on in Chicago.

I was working on masonry repairs in the basement when this all happened, the right place to be when the sirens go off! And the rain – it is not often that you get to see that kind of persistent downpour.

So much rain fell in fact, that I suddenly noticed a small trickle coming out of the storm sewer pipe that currently dead ends in the old grease trap.

sewer-layout-008

Eventually, that storm sewer stub will be connected to the downspout overflow, but we are not there yet, nor do we have an end cap on it. So – water starts to trickle from the city system out of the storm sewer into the grease trap.

Other than this one line, everything else is flood proof due to the sewer layout and check valve.

I was doing something else for a few seconds, and the next time I turned around the grease trap was almost full and the new storm line was submerged in water.

flooding-001

Just by the movement of the water, I could tell that the water was now gushing from the city system into the grease trap, and the water level kept rising.

I went into emergency mode, gathered all the tools from the basement and relocated them to the 1st floor, disconnected anything electrical that was close to the basement floor, and told the dog to get ready for a swim.

flooding-002

All things considered, I was sort of lucky. The downpour has been going on for a while and must have washed any raw sewage out of the combined city system. The water that was gushing into the grease trap appeared to be street runoff and did not smell of sewage, nor did I have any turds floating around (thankfully).

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Well, as you see I had a few seconds to take pictures of the rising water. At this point it was slowly filling up the perimeter drain and gravel base under the basement floor. That hidden storage volume assured that the water rose slowly.

flooding-004

It kept rising to about one and a half inches below the top of the new concrete floor. The rain started to ease, the water stopped rising, and finally the flow reversed back into the city system. Whew, what a close call!

This was quite an experience, and I have wasted no time getting the storm sewer stub temporarily connected to the downspout.

flooding-005

This will stop access of water from the combined city sewer into our basement and prevent this kind of nail biter for the foreseeable future.

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Turning up the heat

Friday, June 11th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Well, not quite yet, but we are getting ready for it. I am talking about the hydronic heating system in the basement floor, also known as radiant floor heat.

The material

To get to the radiant floor heat, we have to install ½ inch cross-linked polyethylene tubing (commonly known as PEX tubing) that will be encapsulated in the basement concrete floor.

The material properties of PEX tubing make it ideal for radiant floor heating systems. It also begins to replace copper tubing in domestic plumbing systems, local building codes permitting.

PEX has an incredible resilience, with two exceptions. First, it degrades under the exposure of UV light. Most product information advises to keep the exposure of the tubing to daylight to less than 90 days. It is needless to say that the less it is exposed to any light, the better.

Secondly, it degrades on the exposure of radical oxygen molecules, which are occasionally found in water. Because of that it is recommended to use PEX tubing for hydronic heating systems with an oxygen barrier.

We would like the tubing to last as long as the concrete floor!

The installation

The radiant floor heat in the basement is organized into several zones. Each zone serves different heating or temperature needs.

pex-01

All the tubing originates in the utility room, where will have the hot water source for heating, and returns to the utility room. Eventually we will connect the ends to a manifold.

The first two lines along the floor edges are spaced 6 inches apart, delivering extra heat along the foundation walls, which mitigates their potential cooling power. All other lines are then spaced 12 inches on center. The spacing is easy as we can use the six by six inch grid of the welded wire mesh as a guide.

We attached the tubing to the welded wire mesh with four inch zip ties at the recommended spacing of every two feet.


To control cracks in the concrete floor, we have planned expansion joints at various locations. At these locations, we run the PEX tubing through a PVC sleeve. The sleeve is the sacrificial lamb, protecting the PEX tubing from stresses caused by any cracking.

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It is also recommended to protect the PEX tubing with PVC sleeves wherever it transitions in or out of the thermal mass, i.e. the concrete floor.

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This is the case in the utility room where the lines originate and terminate (see image above) and where the lines transition out of the main basement into the porch area (see image below).

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The pressure test

Very good! The PEX tubing is in place. Tomorrow, there will be a bunch of guys running around with equipment pouring the concrete over the tubing. But what if we damage a line and cause a leak during the concrete pour?

If that happens, we want to know about it right away, not after the concrete has cured!

Solution: connect all loops with compression fittings, set a pressure gauge on the last line, put the system under pressure and monitor the pressure during the floor installation.

pex-05 pex-06

Done! I got the bicycle pump out, put 30 psi on the system, and we are ready for the concrete the next morning. Except – when I showed up, two hours before the concrete arrived, the pressure had dropped to 10 psi. I wasn’t sure what to make of it and call Mariusz, our plumber, in a panic.

He pointed out that it is very unlikely that I have a leak in the PEX tubing and recommended that I check the compression fittings for a leak.

Our neighbor, who was up early, supplied me with soapy water in a spray bottle. Before long I got a big soap bubble around the culprit fitting and had it fixed. I pumped the pressure back up to 20 psi, and this time it was holding for good.

Actually, after the concrete pour, the pressure rose to 22 psi due to the heat in the concrete from the curing process. Let’s call that airtight!

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Backfilling trenches

Thursday, May 6th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

We are rolling and with the underground plumbing work complete, I am eager to backfill the trenches. That would also take care of all the little piles of clay, gravel and sand. These are all materials I can use to for backfilling. That surely will clean up the basement.


Just throwing clay, gravel or sand into the trenches won’t work. I first started by compacting the gravel bedding around the cast iron soil pipes (CISP). I then gave the pipes a good cover with sand, followed by the clay I had saved for this moment.

The clay piles actually got so dry that I had to wet them two days prior to backfilling. Any backfill material, including clay, should be compacted at the optimal moisture content, which meant that I had to add some water.

I rented a small jumping jack for the day. I just wish they would build some for tall people like me! I got all the fill materials nicely packed down in the trenches, but didn’t want to overdo it.  Mariusz, the plumber, warned me that in some cases the pipes could get crushed in the process. So, I proceeded carefully.

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Water service extension

Wednesday, May 5th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

We were lucky in that we can keep the existing one inch water service coming into the building. Earlier last year, we had difficulties finding it because it had been removed by scavengers. We finally located the snapped off end at the northeast corner of the basement – at the street side.

What do we do with the snapped off end? Well, we need to connect to it to run the line back into the building, into the utility room. The question is if we should run the line in the ceiling or under the basement floor.

The basement has a ceiling height of 7 feet and 6 inches, just about meeting building code. If I want to hide the line in the ceiling, I would have to drill through a whole bunch of floor joists – not something I want to do. Floor joists are best left untouched.

I could leave it exposed under the ceiling, although I would need to insulate the copper tubing to prevent condensation. This option doesn’t tickle my fancy either.

That pretty much leaves me with the option of running the line under the basement floor. Good idea, but I got conflicting messages. Some sources said that building code would not allow it.

I actually can run the line under the basement floor, because I have the shut-off valve and water meter in the parkway in front of the house. Only if the shut-off valve and meter are in the basement, the water service must be routed above the floor as soon as it enters the building.

We got ourselves enough one inch copper tubing and a flare connection to connect to the existing service.

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Because we connect underground, the plumbing code requires that flare connection. We run the line toward the back of the basement…

water-service-line-02

… where we have it turn up in one of the future walls. Here we have another shut-off valve, a ball valve. Because we are now above the floor, the connection of the valve to the tubing is soldered.

water-service-line-03

We got just so far, although we have a whole lot farther to go. But that should happen in due course as soon as we have our new basement floor.

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Finished sewers

Tuesday, May 4th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

We are done with the installation of the new sewer lines, which spread across the basement like a spiderweb. I documented the new lines to have a reference of what is where. This may become handy sometime in the future.

On the street side of the basement, we have the connection to the existing 6 inch sewer, which is followed by a clean out. After the clean out we have a reducing wye that splits the line into the 4 inch sanitary sewer and the 4 inch storm sewer.

sewer-layout-001

The two 4 inch lines extend about 1/3 into the basement, where they turn by 45 degrees to cross between two spread footings on to the west side of the basement.

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Shortly after that turn, the storm line turns again by 45 degrees to continue all the way toward the back. At this point the sanitary line splits. One arm is following the storm sewer, while the other arm is continuing further to the west foundation wall.

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Close to the wall it turns by another 45 degrees, leading to the main drain stack that will serve all plumbing on the 1st and 2nd floors.

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The parallel storm and sanitary lines continue toward the back of the basement, toward the downspout and check valve respectively.

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A wye in the sanitary line connects to the check valve. All basement plumbing is connected to that check valve, which is our basement flood protection. The lines crossing above the storm and sanitary sewer are part of the basement plumbing. More on that below.

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The sanitary sewer splits again at the end of the regular basement, leading to a drain stack that we put in place to serve a future half bathroom. Because we eventually would like to install a composting toilet, we may never need this stack. It’s more about code compliance in case we need to sell the house at one point.

sewer-layout-007

Both lines, sanitary and storm, terminate in the old grease trap in the back porch. The sanitary line is closed off with an end cap. We may need to install a floor drain in the porch area sometime in the future. If so, we can connect that floor drain to the sanitary line. The storm sewer stub won’t remain like this. I will need to connect it to the existing clay tile that is connected to the roof downspout.

sewer-layout-008

It is relatively easy to follow the main lines. The basement plumbing on the other hand appears somewhat complicated. To document and understand the layout and routing, I need to switch to a bird’s-eye view. The plumbing serves the basement bathroom, kitchen, laundry room and utility room. The problem is that there are not walls - yet - just the rough in plumbing.

sewer-layout-01

Check it out and see if you can decipher the spaghetti bowl!

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More sewer installation

Saturday, May 1st, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

Connecting our new sewer to the exiting 6 inch line was just the warm-up. We now need to extend the storm and sanitary sewer throughout the basement. It got really interesting in the back, where we have the check valve and connection to all of the basement plumbing.


I had been endlessly pondering about the detailed pipe layout and routing for all of the basement fixtures. I even tried figure it out by drafting it up in SketchUp (a 3D design tool) – to no avail.

sewer-option-05

I did not feel so bad about it anymore, once my plumbers told me that they only start with a schematic layout – sometimes a sketch on a napkin. The fixture locations (such as the water closet or the shower) don’t change, but how to get the pipes there may.

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The exact details are always resolved during installation. Peter, one of the plumbers, said that they always have to adjust based on what they encounter during installation.

He and his colleague Chris appreciated my presence and knowledge of the building plan. This way we were able to resolve all questions on the spot, which made for a smooth and fun installation.

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Starting on the new sewer lines

Thursday, April 29th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

It feels like we are nearing the end of a long journey. Early this year, we started with the basement sewer project by finding the old sewer lines, inspecting them, and deciphering how they worked.

We took the old sewer stack down, began to think long and hard about a new sewer layout, and finally came up with a good solution. We trenched for the new sewer lines, removed the old vitrified clay pipe, and cleaned out the grease trap.

And finally, (imaging the drum beat) everything is place to install the new cast iron soil pipe (CISP) sanitary and storm sewer. Boy, have we been waiting for this day!

It started early in the morning with the delivery of the CISP and accessories. I looked at the pile of cast iron laying in the back yard and knew that I had we had the work cut out for us over the next couple of days. Don’t think that I am mad enough to attempt the installation myself. I had professional help from Mariusz, Peter and Chris.

cisp-01

As with the trenching, we started the installation in the front of the basement. We removed the old check valve, which I had left in place ‘til now and connected with a non-shear coupling to the existing six inch sewer, which was coming into the building from the street.


I never would have thought that hauling around cast iron piping could be so much fun.

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Grease trap cleaning

Monday, April 26th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

We have this big, old, ugly masonry grease trap in the basement portion of the back porch. Over the past century it received all of the waste water from the kitchens. It also received roof runoff from the downspout. Both roof runoff and kitchen waste water exited the grease trap through the main sewer.

grease-trap-01

When we took a first look at the grease trap early last year, we found a big old stinking, gooey, gunky mess with big and small chunks of grease floating everywhere. Now a year later, it still is stinky, greasy, gooey and gunky. But now it’s time to do something about it – it’s time to clean the mess. Yum!

I got myself a small paint bucket, perforated it with small slots, screwed it onto a long stick and started scooping the all that deliciousness out of the basin. Once I had most of the goo removed, I dropped a small sump pump into the pit. That worked only for a short while, because the small floating gunk clogged the sump pump screen.

Fair enough. I went to the equipment rental place around the corner and got myself a small trash pump, which got the job done, and the basin was finally empty in no time. I now could remove the old incoming sewer lines and part of the rotten brick work.

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We eventually will remove the grease trap and a sump pit for the footing drains that will take its place. But that has to wait until we get to the porch rebuild. For now, I need to have the storm sewer line temporarily terminate in the basin so that it can pick up the roof runoff.

We also will temporarily terminate the footing drains in the old basin, until we install the new sump pit.

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Trenching for new sewer lines

Sunday, April 25th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

With the spread footings excavated, we now can finalize how exactly to route the sewer lines through the basement. But first we need to remove the old vitrified clay tile sewer, which we traced and exposed a while ago.

old-clay-sewer

We start with the excavation for the new sewer at the connection to the existing sewer, i.e. where the existing sewer comes into the building. The elevation of the existing sewer is something we cannot change, and is thus the logical starting point.


While trenching through the basement, we make sure that the bottom of the trench steadily rises at a slope of about 2% (or about a ¼ inch over 1 foot). The slope is needed for proper waste water flow out of the building. Paying attention to and finishing the trench invert with the correct slope will make the upcoming sewer installation a whole lot easier.

Trenching for the main lines (storm and sanitary) is straightforward. Figuring out the trenching for the check valve and all basement plumbing is like shooting from the hip. It is difficult to finalize until we have all the tees, wyes, bends, and vents actually laid out.

I gave it my best bet and hoped most of it would fit the plumbing, although we may need to excavate some more during the sewer installation.

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Spread footings

Saturday, April 24th, 2010
Written by Marcus de la fleur

I am still stuck in the basement, and will be for a while. We have figured out the new sewer layout and know the scope of structural work needed for the green roof. Now it’s time to bring the shovel out of retirement.

We start with the excavation for the spread footings, which will accommodate steel pipe columns to manage the extra load of the planned green roof.


The spread footings take up some space, each four by four feet to be exact. We have to snake the sewer lines in between the existing and new footings from one side of the basement to the other.

By excavating the four by four patches first, we can determine the exact run for the new sewer lines and make sure they won’t end up under the footing.

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